Mission Hyderabad Through My Eyes

Mahalaqa Bai Chanda

Mahalaqa Bai Chanda ( 1768-1824) was also known as Chanda Bibi , she was famous and a popular courtesan during the time of the IInd and IIIrd Nizam dating from the late 18^th and early 19^th century ,She was also the first women poet of India to bring out an anthology of Urdu Gazals and poetry. She was held in esteem for her many feats, her renowned beauty, a shrewd statesman and for her flair with the pen. Hopefully people from Hyderabad will remember her, especially after her tomb was restored recently and was made approachable.

‘White Mughals ‘by W.Dalrymple ,Bilkees I.Latif ‘s ‘ Rare Visage of the Moon’edited by Syeda Imam in her book “The Untold Charminar” and The return of Mahalaqa, on Channel 6 –Google Chrome gives light to her birth and life .My information is also derived from these books.

Not only did she sing, dance and recite in his court she also accompanied Nizam Ali Khan Asif Jah II to battle on three occasions riding elegantly in a man’s attire and participating in the battle too. After the victorious return from the battle of Pangal , her second war, she was conferred with the tittle of Mahalaqa along with a status and an income for life. She was bestowed with honors and vast estates by the Nizam.

Many noble men were attracted to her; At some given time she was the mistress of Mir Alam and it was during a dance performance at his residence that she presented her personally inscribed anthology to the then British resident Capt. John Malcolm who was also one of her admirers.

Her lifestyle was lavish and she was a devote Muslim who dedicated her poems her songs as an invocation to the Prophet Mohamed,she had learnt music from K.Khan Anup the great grandson of the great legendary singer Tansen.

Today the way to the tomb of Mahalaqa Chanda Bai who was also known as the Umrao Jaan of India is easily accessible by car right up to the entrance gate though the lane is narrow,for in 2004 when I visited the Mausoleum the very entrance itself was blocked by a drain and weeds ,it’s a must to see after the restoration it was said that a beautiful garden surrounded the complete area during her time as her Mother was buried there she had a lot of Mulsarry trees planted along with more of her favorite plants.The Mausoleum with arches and delicate trellis work lies at the foot of the Maula Ali Pahad were she is laid to rest beside her mother .

Mahalaqa Chanda died at the age of fifty seven .

Mission Hyderabad through my eyes

I have always had an ardent passion for history and historicalmonuments,Mansions,Palaces,Havelies,churches, mosques,Temples,forts ,structures,Tombs or anything thatconcerns our far gone past ,nothing makes me happier thanbeing in the midst of ruins or the above mentioned places.So I decided to start in my very own Hyderabad the mostromantic and warm city I've ever known and loved .The above picture is of All Saints Church(Secunderabad ) It was build in 1860 by the British to serve thethe British Cantonment ,situated in Trimulgherry this Gothicstructure has such an imposing look, the circular staircase atthe entrance reminded me of St.Mary le Strand in London.Oneither side of the church there are a number of turrets and atower belfry. When I entered the Anglican church they werehaving a choir practise for the next Mass, behind the alter is astained glass window depicting Jesus carrying his cross.Thepews ,lamps the alter a painting of Our Lady holding Jesus thebaptismal font ,its nave and its pulpit at the alter gives you thatantique look as they are all well preserved.Queen Elizabeth IIvisited the church in 1983. The church has a lovely garden anda pond in front of the main entrance.